Today we travel back through the mists of time to a magical place that was known as the San Francisco Airport Hyatt Coffee Shop, unusual in that it was frequented by locals as much as travelers. The reason? Outstanding sandwiches and desserts. Back in the day when I could eat a Monte Cristo sandwich and fries at 11:30 PM and then go to bed with no ill effects, we used to go to the Hyatt Coffee Shop for a snack after a movie at the Hyatt Cinema (now sadly defunct) across the street. Turns out the food and beverage manager at the Hyatt was Dennis Berkowitz, who left the hotel to start his own restaurant empire. His first outlet was Max’s Son, a hybrid Chinese restaurant/Jewish deli. Now he has several Max’s of various types, with a Max’s Opera Café just down the street from his old digs at the Hyatt. We’ve been eating there for about 25 years or so. The food is always good, solid American fare with Jewish deli tendencies and large portions.
I inevitably order the same thing every time: Russian cabbage soup and a pastrami sandwich, partly in tribute to my dad (it was his favorite), and partly because it’s one thing on the menu that I can’t get elsewhere, at least here in NorCal. Plenty of places have ribs and chicken and steaks, but cabbage soup – not likely. It’s as good as I would make it. Maybe not as good as my Aunt Henri’s, although I only ate hers once.
Aunt Henri was known far and wide for her cabbage soup – my brother called it “string soup.” I was a very picky eater and wouldn’t even try it, a decision I regret. I finally took the plunge in my late teens and was smacked in the mouth by the soup’s awesomeness. Too late, as it turned out – I decamped for California and Aunt Henri retired from soup making.
Max’s Opera Café started out with a clever concept – the waiters were aspiring opera singers. Once an hour or so one of them would hop up to the grand piano and sing one of the more popular arias or a Broadway tune, applause applause, then back to eating. Now it’s gotten to be more like a lounge act, with a cheesy electronic keyboard and a cheesy singer crooning cheesy songs end-to-end. Don’t need that during dinner, and it really makes Toasty crispy! If you go, ask to sit in the front room, away from the singer. We keep forgetting to do this. I did notice that this particular Max’s is now called Max’s Restaurant and Bar, so I guess they’re emphasizing the bar part. Dennis, you need to get rid of the cheese!
Max’s Restaurant and Bar
1250 Old Bayshore Hwy.
Burlingame, CA 94010-1805
650-342-6297
http://www.maxsworld.com/
I inevitably order the same thing every time: Russian cabbage soup and a pastrami sandwich, partly in tribute to my dad (it was his favorite), and partly because it’s one thing on the menu that I can’t get elsewhere, at least here in NorCal. Plenty of places have ribs and chicken and steaks, but cabbage soup – not likely. It’s as good as I would make it. Maybe not as good as my Aunt Henri’s, although I only ate hers once.
Aunt Henri was known far and wide for her cabbage soup – my brother called it “string soup.” I was a very picky eater and wouldn’t even try it, a decision I regret. I finally took the plunge in my late teens and was smacked in the mouth by the soup’s awesomeness. Too late, as it turned out – I decamped for California and Aunt Henri retired from soup making.
Max’s Opera Café started out with a clever concept – the waiters were aspiring opera singers. Once an hour or so one of them would hop up to the grand piano and sing one of the more popular arias or a Broadway tune, applause applause, then back to eating. Now it’s gotten to be more like a lounge act, with a cheesy electronic keyboard and a cheesy singer crooning cheesy songs end-to-end. Don’t need that during dinner, and it really makes Toasty crispy! If you go, ask to sit in the front room, away from the singer. We keep forgetting to do this. I did notice that this particular Max’s is now called Max’s Restaurant and Bar, so I guess they’re emphasizing the bar part. Dennis, you need to get rid of the cheese!
Max’s Restaurant and Bar
1250 Old Bayshore Hwy.
Burlingame, CA 94010-1805
650-342-6297
http://www.maxsworld.com/
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